How to Run Power to a Detached Garage or Workshop

Adding electricity to a detached garage or backyard workshop is a project that opens up a lot of options - power tools, lighting, an EV charger, heating, or just a reliable outlet for working outside. It is also a job that requires a permit and a licensed electrician in most jurisdictions. Here is what is involved and what to expect.

Why This Is Not a DIY Project

Running power to a detached structure involves work at the main electrical panel, underground conduit or overhead wiring, and connections inside the detached building. Most states and local jurisdictions require a licensed electrician and a permit for this type of work. In California, this is not optional - unpermitted electrical work on a detached structure creates liability and can cause problems with insurance or when selling the property.

Even if you are confident with basic electrical work inside the home, the combination of panel work, outdoor trenching, and compliance with code requirements for detached structures makes this a professional job in most cases.

Two Ways to Run the Wire

Underground (buried conduit). The most common and cleanest method. Electrical conduit is buried in a trench between the house and the detached structure. The NEC specifies minimum burial depths depending on the type of conduit and voltage. In most cases, rigid metal conduit can be buried at 6 inches, PVC conduit at 18 inches, and direct-burial cable at 24 inches. Your local jurisdiction may require deeper burial.

Trenching adds labor cost but results in a clean installation with no overhead wires and no exposure to weather or physical damage over time.

Overhead (aerial run). A second option is running wire overhead from the house to the garage using weatherproof cable or service entrance cable supported by a messenger wire. The NEC requires minimum clearances above driveways, walkways, and other areas. Overhead runs are generally less expensive than trenching but are not always permitted or practical depending on the distance and layout.

What the Electrician Does

At the main panel: adds a new breaker sized for the subpanel in the garage.

In the trench or overhead: runs appropriately sized wire or cable from the house to the garage.

At the garage: installs a small subpanel, connects the feed wire, and runs circuits from the subpanel to outlets, lighting, and any other loads.

Most garages use a 60-amp or 100-amp subpanel, which provides plenty of capacity for lighting, outlets, and most power tools. If you want an EV charger or electric heat, size accordingly when planning.

What It Costs

Running power to a detached garage typically costs $1,000 to $4,000 or more depending on the distance from the house, whether trenching is required, the size of the subpanel, and local labor rates. California tends to be at the higher end of the national range.

Get quotes from at least two licensed electricians who will also handle the permit. The permit fee typically runs $100 to $300.

Planning the Right Capacity

Think ahead. A 60-amp subpanel is fine for basic lighting and hand tools but may not be enough if you later add an EV charger (which often draws 30 to 50 amps on its own) or an electric heater. Installing a 100-amp or 200-amp subpanel costs only marginally more during initial installation and avoids a costly upgrade later.

Bottom Line

Sources and editorial notes

Prices and permit requirements vary by location, property, equipment, and scope. Treat price ranges as planning estimates and confirm current requirements with the relevant authority and contractor.

• California Contractors State License Board - when a contractor license is required
• US Consumer Product Safety Commission - home safety

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Next step

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